The computer was back up and running a few days ago, but alas, having caught the flu, I was not. I did finish the first two of my spring blouses and completed the practice muslin for another pattern but it was slow going. I am over the worst of the symptoms but still not too zippy yet.
In my last post I mentioned showing you the forward shoulder adjustment I did on the camp shirt McCall’s 5052. For years I have realized that my shoulders are settled forward but I have choosen to ignore that fact in my dress fitting. Why ignore such a simple thing?
Because as a child I hunched over in a self-protective posture which has given me forward shoulders, and seeing those forward shoulders reminds me of the circumstances that left me feeling like I needed to be self-protective. Rather than go there I just ignored it when a bodice didn’t fit so well at the shoulder.
But recently I guess some kind of emotionally-healthy-reality check kicked in and told my brain, “Hey, that shirt could be really cute if you would just fix the shoulder.”
I worried that the alteration would be too hard.
Then I remembered that I live in the age of the internet and someone somewhere has deconstructed everything.
Using two tutorials and my typical c’est le vie attitude towards fitting issues I came up with an acceptably easy forward shoulder alteration.
Here are the tutorials:
Contrary to my fears the adjustment was completed rather easily.
Step One: I cut a small wedge out of the front bodice and taped it onto the back bodice. Then I cut the armscye of the back bodice deeper. REMEMBER- save that little scrap of armscye you just cut away. You will use it later.
Step Two: I drew a straight line from notch to notch across the sleeve cap. I cut along that line and moved the sleeve center point a small distance forward. Whatever amount you take away from the front shoulder seam is the amount you move the sleeve head forward.
Step Three: I cut the scrap of back bodice armscye in half and laid the halves on my sleeve pattern going from the center to the back notches. This way I know I am adding to the back sleeve cap just the same amount that I cut from the back bodice armscye. I taped the tissue slivers down, and then tidied up the edges.
Adjustment done and it worked! The sleeve fits so much more comfortably now that I want to make this adjustment on all of my woven shirts. Sometimes things we have avoided for years have the easiest of fixes! 🙂
Next Post: Tuesday, February 22, 2011: Pattern Review: Simplicity 2447