Vogue 1476 Issey Miyake Coat:Pattern Review

Vogue 1476 Issey Miyake

Vogue 1476

I bought this pattern back in the day – the day being the mid-nineties.  The coat calls for several yards of reversible fabric and it took me quite awhile to hunt down tweed I could afford in a five yard cut.  After locating an inexpensive tan tweed I sewed it up in a size 8. The woman on the pattern envelope looks arty and chic.  I looked like a hobo wrapped in some sort of blanket-toga combination.  I had a mass of ungainly folds , slovenly compared to the loose-but-still-structured appearance of the model.    My coat was so voluminous that a friend of mine used it as an Obi-Wan Kenobi costume on Halloween. 

It looked about right on a six-foot plus, over 200 pound frame. 

I should have taken the hint.

But several years have passed.  In the mid-nineties I was an 8-10 RTW and today I am 16-20 RTW.  That is a sizeable change and you would think I now possess the girth to fill in the folds of this design.  I decided to have another go.  Only this time I bought a cheap thrift store sheet before committing to actual fashion fabric. 

Good thing I did.  Because I still have the same problem with the design.    

Pros:

  • It looks cool on the pattern envelope.
  • The design is novel.
  • After mastering construction you could play around with ornamentation.

Cons:

  • The design is novel.  Construction is not like most coats.
  • The pattern instructions are not as clear as they could be.  The drawings are cut short and I never felt oriented to the pattern.   This is a big deal since the pattern pieces are highly unusual and you can’t rely on your past experience of what a coat bodice or sleeve should look like.
  • The instructions repeatedly show me how to finish my seam edges.  I would have appreciated less instruction on this matter, and more illustration of the complete pattern pieces.

Vogue 1476 Practice Muslin Back View

Finetuning:

I didn’t staystitch every corner of the practice muslin but I would do so if it were fashion fabric.  The pattern directions tell you to finish the hem edges first but if you were hoping to apply a contrast binding you could do them later. 

Will I Sew it Again:

I keep putting this one back into my stash because it seems to unique to throw away.   However, it does not especially flatter me and is at the very far edge of arty for my style. You can’t see this on the pattern envelope but the underarms are dolman-like.  That creates a lot of material cupped around my already thick middle. I need to take the plunge and move it on.  But still the pattern rests in the filing cabinet.

Vogue 1476 Practice Muslin Front View

Advice to Others:

Study the pattern instructions. 

Make a practice muslin using a sheet. 

Be very clear in your markings.  Most of the time I just slash with chalk or nip into the seam.  Here you will need to clearly mark the squares, big circles and small circles or you will go insane trying to figure out which end is up.

If you have an hourglass or inverted triangle figure type then the extra material around the middle won’t bother you.  If you are thick in the middle the design is not so flattering even though with so many folds your viewer won’t be able to say exactly what is off, but you somehow  something is just a little bit.

Overall Style Grade:  A – I always admire the coat I see on the pattern envelope.

Results Grade: B-, Normally I enjoy the Miyake designs and admire his work but after two attempts I have to conclude that the coat on the pattern envelope has had some serious tweaking in order for it to fit such a slender model without excess folding.   The model also looks to be wearing some hefty shoulder pads.  I don’t know what I would have to do to get the coat on the model – make it up in a size 2?

NOTE – WordPress is going crazy and increasing the size of my font when I update.  I am sorry that the font is all over the place.

Next Post: Saturday, August 14, 2010:Entering my County Fair

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14 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Sister
    Aug 12, 2010 @ 21:58:26

    Oh, you had me laughing at that one – hilarious! (Not my style of coat, though.)

    Reply

    • Sewista Fashionista
      Aug 15, 2010 @ 17:34:46

      When you mentioned in your comment how funny the whole thing was, I got to thinking, hmm…. my relationship with this pattern is, well… dysfunctional. So I am going to do it. I have moved the pattern to the “on the way to the thrift store” box. I would look at the picture and feel so guilty tossing it because the pattern was so “artistic”. Now I am telling myself, “If Dr. Fun Loving thinks it’s okay, it must be okay.” So sad that we live states apart or I would have you over for coffee and show you my entire stash because I really need a sewing sister to talk me down by chanting in my ear, “It’s okay to throw it away. It’s okay to throw it away.” Thanks for the little nudge. I needed it. ; )

      Reply

  2. Connie Schaap
    Dec 02, 2010 @ 11:14:28

    I too have had this pattern since it was published eons ago. But unlike you, I did not make it. While taking a class from a local store, the instructor make the coat up and she said she felt like a lumbering elephant in it. There were folds and folds of fabric in the front. She made it from a wool that was quite heavy. So I opted out of that one and made the blouse. THAT was a great success. It is really pretty and easy to wear. Maybe you should give that a try. That way you won’t have to ditch the pattern. No guilt!!!!!

    Reply

    • Sewista Fashionista
      Dec 03, 2010 @ 11:20:35

      Dear Sewfie,
      Originally I bought the pattern in a size 8. I can barely remember being a size 8 now and grading up the blouse or pants was going to be quite a chore. I cut the coat at a size 8 years ago and it was too big on a size 16 friend. As I am now a size 18, I thought, “Hey this thing might fit and look arty and creative.” It didn’t.

      My local thrift sells patterns for 25 cents, so to assuage my guilt feelings I folded up the pattern tissue and donated it to them, as another smaller sized sewer might be able to get some use out of it, by making up the shirt, which does look really cool.

      I appreciate your comment. When I read what your sewing instructor had to say about the design, I thought, “I’m not alone !! 🙂
      Blessings,
      SewistaFashionista

      Reply

  3. jennifer jones
    Feb 07, 2011 @ 17:41:35

    Oh wow, does this bring back the memories. I made this coat many times back in the day when I was doing fashion in Chicago. Still have my original, made up in a tweedy wool with wide stripes. Got a lot of compliments and made the coat for other people, too. I once traded a coat for a professional photo shoot. Have to admit it takes a certain funkiness to wear this– boots and an attitude help!I am a lot bigger now, but the coat still looks good. I love all the Miyake 1980’s patterns. Maybe I will take up sewing again!

    Reply

  4. sabin bally
    Mar 31, 2011 @ 05:36:21

    i love this coat and i’d love to own the pattern. i had to copy it from a friend. i think it’s quite easy to sew, actually …

    Reply

  5. Carmen
    Nov 27, 2011 @ 18:10:03

    I made this coat back in the 80s at a size 10. I loved it. It looks great and still hangs in the closet. The problem I have is that I am a size 20 now. I am thinking about having a more experienced seamstress tackle enlarging the pattern to fit me and also including a lining with it. It would be a huge undertaking no doubt (no pun intended). But making it up in muslin first would be an excellent idea. I am an artist and this would really fit my image. There are so few plus sized patterns and even ready to wear that fit this genre.

    Reply

  6. Keith Robinson
    Mar 27, 2013 @ 09:30:38

    Anybody that has the instructions for this pattern… I need them! Found pattern in thrift store, but there were no instrustions included….( 😦 ) HELP PLEASE….!!!!!!!!!

    Reply

    • Sewista Fashionista
      Apr 08, 2013 @ 11:28:00

      Sorry to be out of the loop so long. Just checked back into my blog. Unfortunately I no longer have this pattern or the instruction sheets as I took it to the local thrift. Hope someone has sent along those instructions to you. Sorry to be so little help.

      Reply

    • sabin bally
      Mar 19, 2014 @ 04:17:43

      are you still looking for the instructions? i have them, i sewed the coat, it turned out really nice. i also have some tips, where things could go wrong. and: it IS easy.

      Reply

  7. Carmen
    Jul 12, 2014 @ 11:02:51

    Hi Sabine, What size is your pattern?

    Reply

    • sabin bally
      Jul 12, 2014 @ 16:23:03

      dear carmen, i think i have the largest size, i copied it from a friend, so i don’t really know what it is. i wear small or size 38 but i just used the pattern as i have it. don’t use heavy fabric, that’s what makes it bulky. also, i first sewed it in some cheap old fabric, jacket length only. it actually looks cool as a jacket too! i want to improve sth. with the pockets, then i will put a photo on my website.

      Reply

  8. Cindy
    Dec 24, 2014 @ 01:12:00

    where can i get those issey miyake’s pattern?

    Reply

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