Vogue 1476 Issey Miyake
I bought this pattern back in the day – the day being the mid-nineties. The coat calls for several yards of reversible fabric and it took me quite awhile to hunt down tweed I could afford in a five yard cut. After locating an inexpensive tan tweed I sewed it up in a size 8. The woman on the pattern envelope looks arty and chic. I looked like a hobo wrapped in some sort of blanket-toga combination. I had a mass of ungainly folds , slovenly compared to the loose-but-still-structured appearance of the model. My coat was so voluminous that a friend of mine used it as an Obi-Wan Kenobi costume on Halloween.
It looked about right on a six-foot plus, over 200 pound frame.
I should have taken the hint.
But several years have passed. In the mid-nineties I was an 8-10 RTW and today I am 16-20 RTW. That is a sizeable change and you would think I now possess the girth to fill in the folds of this design. I decided to have another go. Only this time I bought a cheap thrift store sheet before committing to actual fashion fabric.
Good thing I did. Because I still have the same problem with the design.
- It looks cool on the pattern envelope.
- The design is novel.
- After mastering construction you could play around with ornamentation.
- The design is novel. Construction is not like most coats.
- The pattern instructions are not as clear as they could be. The drawings are cut short and I never felt oriented to the pattern. This is a big deal since the pattern pieces are highly unusual and you can’t rely on your past experience of what a coat bodice or sleeve should look like.
- The instructions repeatedly show me how to finish my seam edges. I would have appreciated less instruction on this matter, and more illustration of the complete pattern pieces.
I didn’t staystitch every corner of the practice muslin but I would do so if it were fashion fabric. The pattern directions tell you to finish the hem edges first but if you were hoping to apply a contrast binding you could do them later.
Will I Sew it Again:
I keep putting this one back into my stash because it seems to unique to throw away. However, it does not especially flatter me and is at the very far edge of arty for my style. You can’t see this on the pattern envelope but the underarms are dolman-like. That creates a lot of material cupped around my already thick middle. I need to take the plunge and move it on. But still the pattern rests in the filing cabinet.
Advice to Others:
Study the pattern instructions.
Make a practice muslin using a sheet.
Be very clear in your markings. Most of the time I just slash with chalk or nip into the seam. Here you will need to clearly mark the squares, big circles and small circles or you will go insane trying to figure out which end is up.
If you have an hourglass or inverted triangle figure type then the extra material around the middle won’t bother you. If you are thick in the middle the design is not so flattering even though with so many folds your viewer won’t be able to say exactly what is off, but you somehow something is just a little bit.
Overall Style Grade: A – I always admire the coat I see on the pattern envelope.
Results Grade: B-, Normally I enjoy the Miyake designs and admire his work but after two attempts I have to conclude that the coat on the pattern envelope has had some serious tweaking in order for it to fit such a slender model without excess folding. The model also looks to be wearing some hefty shoulder pads. I don’t know what I would have to do to get the coat on the model – make it up in a size 2?
NOTE – WordPress is going crazy and increasing the size of my font when I update. I am sorry that the font is all over the place.
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