Butterick 5219 Scoop Yoke Tunic:Pattern Review

Butterick 5219 Scoop Yoke Tunic

I bought this at a pattern sale because it looked easy and was a T-shirt but not in a boring, plain design.  I cut the muslin months ago and it has sat in the sewing basket.  For some reason I put off sewing it.

Pros:

  • Easy to construct.
  • The yoke allows some embellishment and creativity.
  • The pattern offers both summer and winter sleeve options.

Cons:

  • The scoop yoke must fit at the correct part of your upper chest.  It might pay to make a small muslin of just the yoke first.
  • The knit you choose must be amenable to some serious gathering.  I will elaborate later under Fabric.

Some Assembly Required:

I used flat assembly as usual making back and front separately, then attaching at shoulders, sewing sleeves, and then down side seams.

Fabric:

Here is my biggest bummer.  Originally I got this fabric off the clearance rack at Jo’s.  It was called polyester jersey, but pretty much resembled the good old-fashioned double knit polyester I remember from childhood.  Jersey sounded like such a nice name though, softer and more refined.  I doubted my initial responses and bought enough for a wrap dress.  A wrap dress which I did not look good in; so I threw the finished dress into my stash of practice muslin material. 

Months later, and having no knits handy, I grabbed it up when it came time to make this shirt.   The royal blue is flattering to me and I thought the poly wouldn’t be so hot in a swingy summer shirt. 

What was I thinking? 

Calling double knit polyester “jersey” does not turn it into a softer gentler version of itself. 

THUNK, THUNK, THUNK went my needle as the fabric ran through the feed dogs.

I changed the needle.

Thunk, Thunk, Thunk it continued on.

Fearful that gathering the material would stress the machine and mess up the timing I settled for front pleats.  The blouse fit, but was not so flattering.  I cannot tell if it is the design itself, or if full gathers would flatter me more than the stiffer looking front pleats.

Butterick 5219 Practice Muslin

But don’t worry.  I found something useful to do with this awful fabric.

Staking Tomatoes.

Finetuning:

Be sure to pick a knit that gathers well. 

Also fit the yoke well.  You can easily alter the size and scoop to fit your bone-structure.  I am going to cinch it up a bit and take off a shred making it slightlysmaller.  This shouldn’t change anything on the blouse portion since it is gathered into the scoop and that I can easily manipulate to fit.

Will I Sew it Again:

I am going to try again since I like the design so much.  Only next time I am lengthening the blouse to make a nightgown.  I think this pattern resonates so much in part due to a dim memory of a very pretty nightgown I had in my late teens.

Advice to Others:

Warning for plus-size sewers – once again the design details are graded up a bit much.  I felt that the yoke looked unnaturally big next to my face.  It seemed the neckline was wearing me, not the other way around.  I have this problem a lot since my face and neckline are not particularly full, just my stomach.  Pear and apple shapes should make a practice muslin of the yoke alone and take a hard look at its size in relation to their face and shoulders.

Overall Style Grade:  A, I like how carefree and breezy it looks.

Results Grade: C, for ambivalence.  My first reaction was that this is not a flattering design on me, but that could be due to the fabric choice on my part, and overgrading of the yoke on the patternmaker’s part.  The pattern is easy to construct, but has more variables than meets the eye.  After one more attempt I will have a clearer sense of this pattern.

Next Post: Tuesday, June 29, 2010;  Side Seam Zippers – Pucker UP!

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2 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Echo
    Jun 27, 2010 @ 02:59:41

    Hiya – love the thunk thunk thunk sound as the needle hits awful fabric…. I have been sewing up a few nasties into muslins the last little while and I think my machine needle stockist is LOVING it! Huh.

    Reply

  2. Sister
    Jun 30, 2010 @ 00:06:47

    Ooh, it’ll make a beautiful nightgown – I love the style too, so you’ve got to make it work!

    Reply

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