Simplicity 9825 Yoked A-Line and Pencil Skirt:Pattern Review

Simplicity 9825

Straight or A-Line Yoked Skirt

I keep making yoked skirts this summer.  I used to think yokes would worsen my prominent belly but I am so glad to see that they actually work to hide it by breaking up the area.  Now I hope that I don’t sew so many yoked skirts that my wardrobe becomes repetitive.

Pros:

  • Few pattern pieces are easy to construct and the design lends itself well to assembly-line sewing.
  • The close-fitting A-Line is flattering to many figure types and there is a pencil option with which to experiment.
  • The yoke fit well with just some small tinkering at the waist since I have a straight waist.

Cons:

  • The short pencil needs a small vent but that is not included in the option I choose.  My pencil skirt is a little more formal feeling in that it constricts my movement just a tiny bit.  I made it to be a casual skirt and I am wondering how much wear I can get out of it realistically.  If you are making the shorter pencil skirt think about where you might want to make a small vent; front, back or two little ones at the sides.
  • The length is quite long even though I am of average height.  I imagine most women are going to need to do a serious take-up at the lengthen-shorten line.
  • For beginner venturing into more structured skirts this one does require a zipper, a lapped or centered zipper will do.  If you are unfamiliar with inserting zips make a few practice runs on scraps.  

Some Assembly Required:

I assemble the front fully and then the back fully, including zipper.  I always try to work my assembly process around  inserting the zipper while the pieces can be laid flat. I hold off on understitching or topstitching.  After both front and back are finished separately,  I continue onwards to sewing sides seams, checking fit and then serging seam allowances.

After sewing sides seams the skirt makes a full circle.  Then I go ahead and understitch the facings and topstitch down the facing as it can now be done in the round.  Finally I complete the hem. 

Fabric:

The pencil skirt is made of a navy gabardine remnant.  Apparently cheap gabardine because everytime I photograph it the results look rumpled.   I real life it looks much smoother and our eyes have become accustomed to the slightly rumpled casual Docker.  However, seeing the photographed wrinkles has spurred me to look for higher grade gabardine.

Simplicity 9825 Pencil Skirt in Navy Gabardine. Lightened original image as it was too dark.

The second skirt is made of wide-wale corduroy.  Wide-wale is not my first choice as the fabric is very heavy.  But it came in a bag of remnants from the local thrift store.  I had about 2 ½ yards and it cost around $2.00 total.  You can’t beat that kind of deal and it was in one of my favorite colors: chocolate brown.  It made a cute casual skirt and the heavier weight made for a better lay of fabric. 

Simplicity 9825 Brown Corduroy: Again I lightened the image in Photoshop so you could make out the detail.

It also topstitched beyond my expectations.  I couldn’t believe how nice the topstitching looked, nor how the feed dogs seemed to grab the fabric, instead of fabric sliding around creating wonky stitching.  Who knew wide-wale corduroy was so friendly?

 Finetuning:

Skirts are now being worn at the knee.  Skirts designed for calf-length typically have a lot of fullness.   This pattern is not designed with excess fullness so try to get the hem at the most flattering part of your knee.   At my first fitting the A-Line hem fell at mid-calf and looked frumpy.   I was dubious about taking so much off at the hem but was glad I did.

Will I Sew it Again?

Yes.  I am thinking of some little woolen A-Lines.  I would have to draft a lining but that wouldn’t be hard for this simple pattern.

Advice to Others:

I like my knee-lengths to be just below my knee. This design works well in the inch below to inch-above knee range. Most women wouldn’t mind that range, but if you are adamant about wearing only calf-length, this might not be the pattern for you.

Overall Style Grade:  A, I think it will become a wardrobe staple. The uncluttered close-to-the-body A-Line is especially flattering.

Results Grade: A, easy to sew, you can choose the level of detail so beginning sewers can achieve a better finish by opting out of any fussiness, and you could churn out quite a few of these in no time.

Next Post: Tuesday, June 22, 2010: Sewing Snit: Interfacing Ickiness

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2 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Sister
    Jun 22, 2010 @ 23:46:11

    Ooh, love the corduroy one especially – beautiful!

    Reply

  2. Trackback: Sewing Snit:Crushed Snaps « Sew Store-Bought

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