Pants Fitting:Step Two – The First Muslin

Given my past what occurred next in my pants drafting adventure was quite a shock to the system.

The damn things actually fit!

I have never sewn a pair of pants that weren’t a heartbreaking mass of creases and bulges.   So many times I have tried to fix the fitting errors only to generate more.  Each pants-sewing attempt would leave me disheartened and I would give it up for months, only trying again after time’s passage had induced some forgetfulness of my earlier travails.

Having been burnt so many times, even though I looked forward to this next step in my sewing education, I felt it best to adopt an attidude of skeptical hopefulness, if there is such a thing. 

I might be a featherweight but I could have shouted hallelujah over the results.

The First Muslin

Front View First Pants Drafting Muslin

Appalling you might think, but this is the best fit I have ever achieved in any home-sewn trouser.  Overall the material flows smoothly over both my stomach and rump.  The crotch nor the waistband cut into me.  I don’t have those bulging, funky-looking smile lines in the front crotch.  “Crack is wack” as my husband’s high school students say, and for once I have on a pair of pants that aren’t displaying more of my seat configuration than I care to show.

Back View First Pants Drafting Muslin

I realize that this basic of a pattern might not be most flattering to my figure but it can be altered with varying the zipper insertion and adding pockets.  I don’t know which was worse, seeing the unbroken line of my rump, or viewing how tubby my tummy has grown.  Then I realized that strategic placement of pockets is what normally breaks up these areas in RTW and I could use the same when I sew up the wearable versions.

Side View First Pants Drafting Muslin

The Alterations

Lowered front dart but kept it much thinner than most standard patterns.   When I first drew the front darts per the drafting instructions I wondered how such a thin dart would look, but most of my attention was drawn to my thankfulness that I had only to draw one dart, instead of two, therefore I did not much question the draft instructor’s reasons. This is another instance where on my own I would not have varied much from what is typical in a standardized pattern.  Clearly those double sets of deep darts have not been working for me, yet I would not have thought to question their presence in the pattern construction.   They might have been affecting my fit for years in a way that I was previously unaware.  

Tucked out excess in front which significantly shortened crotch.  Again, on my own, I would have felt I was doing something “wrong” to shorten the front crotch by so much.  I’ll show you on the next post of the second muslin, when I shortened the front crotch it didn’t take out inches so much as deepen the curve almost to the point of looking like a typical back crotch curve for a curvy rump.  It made sense and I don’t know why I haven’t taken a hard look at my abdomen and realize that it is so curvy in front that it does resemble a rump curve a bit. (Though I won’t dismiss denial as a reason for my obtuseness.)

Tucked out excess in front lower belly.

You can see that shortening the front crotch has caused my leg seams to seriously drift but that is something I won’t catch until the next muslin, my attention being so enraptured by the lack of bulges and creases in the stomach and rump portions.

Lowered waistband from my natural waist.   You can see the mark I made with a sharpie on the front view photo above.  My natural waist is quite high and the drafting process uses that measurement. If pants ever reach these heights again I have something to help me adjust the pattern.   For now I am going with the waistband at the bellybutton.

Quite pleased with this pair I used a marker over my seamlines, seam ripped and used this muslin as the pattern for my next muslin, which it turns out presents some challenges of its own.

Next Post: Tuesday, June 8, 2010; Pants Drafting – The Second Muslin.


1 Comment (+add yours?)

  1. Sister
    Jun 05, 2010 @ 08:11:19

    These posts are awesome – the pics are so educational to see what changes you’re making and how it affects the fit.


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