Ten Design Details
It’s spring and all the magazines are out! During a recent library visit with my daughter I gleaned these ten design details from the March 2010 Elle Magazine. Here is what I saw that you might be able to do in your fashion sewing using patterns you already have.
Leg of Mutton Sleeve with Turned Back Triangular Cuff
This cuff is unusual in that it looks to be an extension of the sleeve itself. The fabric is very stiff. The sleeve was too stiff to please me but the cuff was very interesting. It separated at the bottom and did not meet at the under sleeve seam. I imagine you would extend your sleeve triangularly. It would take a practice muslin for sure, but would look the bomb in a stiff snappy fabric.
Denim with Girlish Embroidery
I have been eyeing this dainty embroidered denim at JoAnn’s and Hancock’s for quite awhile because I think it is charming. I have been reluctant to buy because I fear looking like mutton dressed as lamb. And the embroideries have been a bit too close and I wondered if having what amounted to a print on my bottom half might make me look dumpy. I am going to look again at this fabric and see if I can consider it for a skirt, if not for pants. Or at least make up a pair of pants for my daughter so I can enjoy it vicariously by seeing how cute she looks in it.
Angled Pocket Detail
Just some simple redrafting of a standard pocket but it is the small details like this that allow you to keep your TNT patterns up to date.
Faux Notch Collar
Adele Margolis has a few of these in her pattern design book if memory serves me right. It is actually a shawl collar with a notch cut into the outer edge to mimic the standard tailored notch collar. Probably requires a practice muslin because I can envision the notch cupping if not sewn correctly, but if you already have a shirt pattern you have used repeatedly then playing around with a collar might be a way to keep it novel for you.
Underwear as outerwear has been in and out for awhile and I have always hated it because the material was see-through and sheerweights do not compliment my bone structure. But this version is very lovely, made of thicker material that is both opaque and possessed of some heft. It looked to be a nude poly interlock, versus the nylon slip material that designers used to sell. The original waistline is empire but I think the same look can be had a the natural waist, and you could use large black elastic if you didn’t want to make the waistband.
Safari Jacket with the Sleeve Widened at the Cuff
This looked very casual on the model. The carefree appearance resonated with me though privately I wondered if the
cuff would end up in my coffee when I wore it, making it less carefree for me. Notwithstanding my clumsiness this design has a lot of plusses for the home sewer; no collar, basic front placket with snaps, squared off pockets with an inside pleat that you could take or leave, and a simple sleeve alteration in that you could widen a standard sleeve and make sure you had enough hem to turn up as a deep cuff.
My drawing is not very good. This is just a little square thing, almost like two scarves sewed at shoulders and sides, that rests over another shirt. I couldn’t tell how the edges were sewn. You can probably wing it depending on the fabric. The one I saw had a late 80’s/FAME look, but I think it has the potential to look breezy, dramatic, romantic, etc. You would just pick whatever fabric gave the look you wanted. And the sewing is very basic and quick.
Fendi is calling this a blouse, but it looks like a poncho to me. I believe the model was wearing a shirt underneath. The fabric looked like a very soft lightweight sweater, opaque and drapey. This one also looks to be very versatile. Just drag out an old poncho pattern and make it up in a very current fabric.
Shorts with Peek-a-Boo Hemline
Tight-fitting shorts aren’t for everyone but I thought the hemline detail gave the appearance of being very sexy when actually a very modest portion of the leg is showing. I have no idea how this was accomplished and how you would alter a hemline. Just thought I would throw it out there for those who may have some idea.
Silk Quilted Belt
My drawing does not do this justice. This is a very lovely piece by Etro. They used a softly contrasting patterned silk with simple quilt lines and then laid a cord over the mid-section that tied at center waist. On certain styles of shirt dresses this would look very nice, you can probably draft your own pattern, and you can play with the contrast. If you are narrow-waisted you got it made, but if you are a bit thick in the middle you could try this several ways. With dark fabric as the base with a contrasting cord; Cord and base fabric matching; Matching belt to shirtdress. It’s up to you.
Now if any readers have pattern or alteration suggestions for how to successfully execute any of these design details please do give us your ideas. We look forward to hearing from you.
Next Post: Tuesday, March 30, 2010; Whoops! My Mistake: Serger’s Don’t Staystitch