It isn’t hard to learn and is an all-around workhorse of a technique.
Tailored enough to pass unremarked by most viewers of your garment it is an extremely useful substitute for one of the fancier dancier sleeve vents that require perfect sewing and lots of obvious topstitching. Additionally you don’t ever have to reject buying a shirt pattern because you aren’t up to the cuff. Nor will you have to potentially disrupt the overall design by creating an elastic cuff in place of the original one.
Sometimes it is called a continuous bound placket. Please do consult a few sewing manuals to get several different takes but the illustrations will look a bit like this.
Step One: Cut Placket Piece and Make Slit in Sleeve
Step Two: Sew Sleeve To Placket.
This is the point where most instructions fail to inform you that you will initially find this to be an impossibility and you will keep rechecking the illustrations wondering at the sanity of anyone who would ask you to do this.
Just forge ahead on a practice sleeve. Really it will come out better than you think.
But you still might sweat it.
Step Three: Then it works like a binding to cover up your previous stitching.
Step Four: Let the slit return to its original shape and stitch down placket.
Lay one half on top of the other. By now you will recognize what you have as a standard shirt placket. Then it will seem natural to to fortify the weak point at the top with some attractive stitching that will also hide any small gathers that might have been made as you sewed.
Now you have a standard RTW placket for a dress shirt and you eschew wonky sleeve vents forever.
Next Post: Thursday, March 18, 2010; The Case for the Practice Muslin