Sleeve Plackets: Faced Plackets – The One Not To Use Even if the Pattern Instructions Say So!

The horror!  How could those nice people who write pattern instructions lead us so far astray?

Well, they do. Why so many pattern instruction sheets direct the sewer to use this one is a mystery.  There is so much to dislike about it.

  • The hand whipstitching will tear because the sleeve takes harder wear than a bottom hemline.
  • The handstitching is often not even and even a little bumpiness on the flat sleeve becomes accentuated when the sleeve is eventually gathered causing the sleeve to hang a little off. 
  • Finally, the tiny stitches will be perceptible on the outside, something not expected in a modern garment, and that is going to look wonky to your viewer, therefore screaming dorky and homemade.

 

Avoid it. 

 There are so many ways to acceptably create a sleeve vent that there is no need to settle for one whose appearance undermines all of your hard work.  This placket option will not be named as such on the pattern instructions so let me show it to you. 

The instructions illustrations and instructions will look similar to these.

1) Lay facing onto right side of sleeve. Sew small rectangle for placket.  Cut slit and turn under.

 

2)On wrong side of sleeve turn under facing and hemstitch to sleeve.

 

If you see pattern instructions that look similar to the drawings I have for you:

  • Stop. 
  • Get your sewing manual out. 
  • Choose another option.

Now that I’ve so bashed the faced placket I know someone will come forward with a cute little number where it is acceptable and lovely, for example, as part of an ethnic blouse where the sleeve vent facing is exposed on top and matches an exposed collar facing.  But then it would be decoratively topstitched and integral to the overall design. 

Unless you have designed your shirt with the facing exposed where it becomes a part of an overall design,  avoid this one and master one or two of the other placket techniques, the most adaptable being either the mandarin slit, from an earlier post, and the continuous lapped placket, a RTW standard and worth learning.

Related Posts: The Mandarin Slit

Next Post: Tuesday, March 16, 2010: Continuous Lapped Placket – The One to Learn

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