Sleeve Plackets: Make Your Placket in the Side Seam, a Mandarin Slit

Here is another cheater’s method of getting a placket in a blouse.  All the better that you can sometimes find it on ready-to-wear.   This method gives a cuff opening that looks very like a standard placket.  I didn’t know this method had a name until I perused Claire Schaeffer’s book “Sewing Shortcuts”. http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Sewing-Shortcuts/dp/0806975644/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267634385&sr=8-1

 She has an overview of placket techniques much more extensive than I am giving here and I encourage you to take a look at the book.  What I am giving here is my way of doing this placket, not hers.   For a more canonical version refer to Schaeffer pages 167-168 in my edition @1981 Sterling Publishing Co. 

This is my preferred placket if I think I might mess up a real one!

Here is an overview of what I do.

1)  I take a ruler and just guestimate how long I want my vent, usually 3-4 inches.  

2) I mark 3-4 inches from the bottom of my sleeve pattern and then serge each side separately. 

3) Topstitch the serged edges making your placket.

Topstitch in as understated a manner as possible the open seam edge down. The serged side is somewhat apparent from the outside so I usually don’t want to highlight this particular vent with fancy or contrasting stitching.  And I have always seen it as a kind of cheat.  (But now that I know this technique has history, maybe I will get over my silly insecurities.)

4) Attach cuff.

5) Attach sleeve to body of blouse and then sew from underarm through side seams of blouse.

This is a great first placket for someone new to blouse-making which achieves the appropriate function without the hassle of a traditional placket.

Next Post: Tuesday, March 9, 2010: Finding your Natural Waist

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3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Trackback: Sleeve Plackets: Faced Plackets – The One Not To Use Even if the Pattern Instructions Say So! « Sew Store-Bought
  2. Krista
    Sep 19, 2013 @ 10:52:39

    Thank you for posting this! I found this technique in Singer’s “Timesaving Sewing”, but since I don’t own the book I didn’t quite remember how it was done. This was a great refresher, and I was able to finish a shirt for my son last night because of this.

    Reply

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