McCalls 5056 Gathered Godet Skirt:Pattern Review

McCalls 5056 Godet Gathered Skirt

This spring I am looking for a few simple skirts to quickly sew.  I thought this one looked a little more dramatic than a basic pull-on skirt.  I especially liked the idea of adding a pretty trim at the bottom to emphasize the flair of the godets.

Pros:

  • It is easy to construct after you master the godets. 
  • Since RTW summer clothing is often imperfectly sewn, any slight wonkiness in your godets will not be noticed, and may be completely imperceptible if you select a small-to-medium size print.
  • The sewing moves along quickly giving you a sense of accomplishment.

Cons:

  • The godet assembly can be repetitive.  This type of sewing works best for me when I am in a certain kind of mood.
  • There is a small difference in godet size.  This can be easily overlooked.  See the illustrations.

 

Some Assembly Required:

1.)  I overcast all of my edges at the beginning before seaming.  It doesn’t have to be done this way.  I just thought it would be easier to get it over with than worry about managing the serger past the godet insertion points.

2.) I sewed the shorter godets in first. 

  • Take the panels, sew down to the mark.  This will be the lowest mark on the panel because we are using the shorter godet. 
  • Then insert the godet. 
  • Do this for all four short godets and you will end up with four skirt pieces.

3.) Then take the four skirt pieces you have and begin working on the longer godets by sewing down to the mark, and then inserting the longer godet.  Again you will do this four times.   The fourth time will sew the skirt together. 

4.) While there was no waistband and the skirt can still be laid flat, I laid it out checking the hemline.  Touch up the hemline now. 

5.) I put the elastic waistband in next so I could do a final check of the hemline during the final fitting. 

6.) Then I overcast and stitched the hemline.

7.) Next I quickly took a picture of it before giving it the final ironing so it looks a bit rumpled, but here it is. 

McCalls 5056: Needing the final iron but finished and wearable.

Fabric:

I used a bright pink cotton that I have had in my stash YEARS!  Bought in the mid-nineties the fabric needed to be used.  It isn ‘t broadcloth cotton.  It is a looser weave, but still opaque, somewhat like what you see in folk costumes. 

Techniques you must know to get a good result:

This is an easy skirt with only two techniques to master.

  • Elastic Waistbands.
  • Godet Insertion: I practiced my godet insertion.  Here is a photo of the practice muslin.  If you have not done godets before do a practice muslin with much shortened panels and godets.  Unlike a fitted woolen skirt in which the insertion point must be spot on, this is a great pattern with which to master this technique because the gathers are going to hide any imperfections. 

McCalls 5056 Practice Muslin. I cut it impossibly short and the hemline is uneven but it allowed me to practice the godet insertion.

Finetuning:

Iron as I go instead of waiting until the end.

The original hemline for the calf-length hit the floor on me.  If you desire a knee-length you are really going to have to hike up the hem.

Will I Sew it Again:

Yes, I enjoyed it.  I think my next one is going to be in a funky madras plaid with a bright grosgrain ribbon at the hemline.  This pattern is simple and quick enough to allow you some extra time and energy for creativity.

Advice to Others:

As always, make a practice muslin.

Pull out a few manuals and consider the different methods of godet insertion, give each a try on your practice muslin, and choose the one with which you have the most success.

Overall Style Grade:  A, this skirt is flattering to many figure types and adaptable to many different prints and solids.

Results Grade: A, after you master the godet getting a good result is easy as you aren’t moving from technique to technique, you are just sewing one technique over and over again.

Next Post: Saturday, May 1, 2010: A Sewing Snit

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3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Gwen
    Apr 29, 2010 @ 07:30:13

    That’s a terrific skirt, as was your last one. I love godets. Nice sewing!

    Reply

  2. Echo
    May 06, 2010 @ 04:17:16

    Very nice skirt and I understand about rethreading the serger…. Huh! If you have this problem again, try Pam’s suggestion at http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/search/label/More%20Sewing%20Tutorials and scroll down to the stabilising hems one. I use it when knits stretch out and it works great. Essentially you stick solvy to the seam line and it is oh so easy to sew without stretching. Perfect. Anyway it may mean you don’t have to snip and tuck/dart.

    Reply

  3. Saarah
    Jun 17, 2010 @ 02:39:36

    I just wanted to make a godet skirt and it will help me surely. Nice skirt . Thanks for sharing..

    Reply

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